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Kidepo Valley National Park inhabits Uganda’s northernmost tip, a short distance from South Sudan and Kenya. This is the safari vacation you’ve always pictured: a dry, fawn-colored landscape dotted with Tim Burton–esque acacia shrubs and fat Kigelia trees, and the roar of lions rolling in from distant hills.

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Apoka Safari Lodge is a shocking oasis of luxury in the middle of the rugged savannah; there’s a stunning open-air main lodge, a curated handicraft shop, and even a luxe swimming pool, not to mention 10 handsome cottages with private terraces and outdoor stone baths.

Come for the remoteness; on three half-day game drives, my group encountered elephants, zebras, giraffes, lions—and zero other jeeps.

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